1. Ma Vie a Paris

(My Life in Paris)

There is a wonderful Paris guide called, “Ma Vie a Paris”. It is only available from Astier de Villatte, a store with two locations in Paris. But I came into possession of this guide in the most peculiar way. The story of my path to this guide is my story of Paris – unique, magical and transcendental experiences, delightful surprises and coincidences, intellectual and self-discovery, aesthetic wonder, courage, friendship and love.

My wonderful french teacher and friend, Elisabeth Bettencourt, recommended that I buy “Ma Vie a Paris.” She said an American student of hers had discovered this fabulous guide and that it was a special book that I should buy as soon as possible to discover the best of Paris. She leant me a copy of her book which had on the front cover the name of the store where I could buy it, and, an address.

One morning, my husband and I set off to the address on the book cover to buy a copy of the book and then to have a relaxing afternoon in Paris, maybe using “Ma Vie a Paris” as our guide. 

We arrived at the address printed on the book cover, only to find a travel agency instead of a book store. It wasn’t too much of a stretch to conclude that a travel agency would sell travel guides, even though the agency’s name was not Astier de Villatte. We ventured inside and quickly discovered that no Paris guides were sold there.  The agents, though, were extremely nice. They did a quick Internet search to help us locate the store, Astier de Villatte.  They found the store located far from where we were, but, also learned that the store sold ceramic pieces, not books. We thanked the agents and left.

We began walking down the street when an ancient, barely readable sign that said “Imprimeur, 3eme etage” (Printer, 3rd floor) caught my eye on an old building. We passed right by when something told me to turn around and investigate. My husband was skeptical, but we approached the old building and rang the bell.  No response. Just then, a woman approached the building and also rang the bell. She received no response, but after she made a telephone call, she was buzzed in and we followed right behind. 

As we entered, we immediately felt like we were transported back to another century. The building felt, smelled and looked like it still existed in the 19th century.

We hesitantly climbed an old stairway to the third floor and found an open doorway where we saw an actual 19th century printing press in full operation. Had we entered a door to another dimension?

We asked the printer operator about the Paris guide. We were not sure that he understood us, but we were told to go up one more floor. On the 4th floor we were quickly brought back to the 21st century. We peeked into a room where a photo shoot of ceramic tableware was taking place. We quickly excused ourselves and decided that our little adventure was over.  

We started to descend the stairway when a man from the photo shoot followed us and asked if he could help us with anything.  We explained our search for “Ma Vie a Paris.” He said he lived in the building and asked us to wait a moment while he went to his apartment. Lo and behold, a few minutes later, he returned with a copy of “Ma Vie a Paris” and gave it to me as a gift! 

My instinct to investigate the building was right! It turned out the the guide is printed on the old printing press that we spied, and it is indeed sold in Astier de Villatte, a store that also sells the one-of-a kind handmade ceramic pieces we saw being photographed (which, believe it or not, can also be found at ABC Home & Carpet in NYC). "Ma Vie a Paris" is still printed with lead blocks on high bulk papier with a Louis XIV golden edge, on one of the last typographic printing presses still professionally producing books in France. 

And, serendipitously, the man who was kind enough to give us the book turned out to be the owner of Astier de Villatte, and, we later discovered, the cousin of the godfather of my french teacher! Only in Paris!!

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